Skip to main content

FIELD NOTES: A ship on dry land, with its own golf course

A couple of miles east of the sprawling rail and shipyards that make up the port of Superior, Wisc., the sole relic of a brief but fascinating era in maritime history sits incongruously in the middle of a grassy field, flanked by a putt-putt golf course, playground and ice cream shop. To the casual observer, the whaleback steamer Meteor resembles a submarine more than the surface-faring freighter she was; her white superstructure mounted awkwardly atop her 380-foot long rounded black hull.  

The late-19th century was a bustling and occasionally weird time in naval architecture. The centuries-long era of wooden sailing vessels was drawing to a close, and while it was clear that steam-powered steel ships were the future, it wasn’t entirely clear how the design of those ships would shake out. The most obvious answer was to convert existing wooden designs to  steel, and install boilers and engines. Steel, though, is an entirely different building material that offered both challenges and opportunities to the shipbuilders of the day. Alexander McDougal, a captain and shipbuilder from Scotland, saw the potential for an entirely new kind of vessel; one that looked nothing like its wooden predecessors, could be built quickly and inexpensively and offered greater cargo capacity than similar-sized ships. His design came to be known as the “whaleback,” and 44 of them were built by the American Steel Barge Company of Superior between 1888 and 1898.  

Initially well-received by the men who sailed them and the companies that purchased them, a series of high-profile mishaps tarnished the reputation of the ships to the point where many sailors refused to serve aboard them. Although their overall safety record was similar to other designs of the era, when fully loaded, they rode very low in the water, with the waves often rolling over the top of the hatches. While this was precisely how the ships were supposed to function, it isn’t hard to see how sailors accustomed to their boats being mainly above water might have found this disturbing.

Further, the low profile of the ships made them difficult for other vessels to see, especially in poor weather conditions. In July 1901, the whaleback Sagamore was riding at anchor waiting out fog when she was rammed by the steamer Northern Queen. The Sagamore split amidships and sank very quickly, killing three. 

The most notorious mishap involving a whaleback, however, occurred on June 7, 1902. The Thomas Wilson left the harbor in Duluth carrying a load of iron ore. Because the weather was clear and calm, the ship departed with some of her hatches open, the crew still in the process of closing them as she made way. At the same time, a conventional wooden steamer, the George Hadley, was entering the harbor. At the last minute, the Hadley was directed to divert to Superior Harbor because all the docks at Duluth were occupied. The Hadley turned into the passing Wilson, striking her just forward of the open aft hatch, rolling her to port, and allowing tons of water to enter her fully-loaded cargo hold. The Wilson sank within three minutes, drowning nine of her 20-man crew.  

Although the Hadley was primarily at fault for the incident, it did not escape the notice of other ships in the harbor that, despite significant damage, she remained afloat, and none of her crew were lost. Loading rules for whalebacks were subsequently revised so that all hatches had to be closed before leaving the dock, but the mariners of the region did not quickly forget the speed and ease with which the Wilson sank. The wreck of the Wilson, incidentally, is still there, a mile outside Duluth Harbor in 70 feet of water. 

Most whalebacks, however, did not suffer such a dramatic end. The majority were either scrapped for their metal during WWII, or like the Meteor, continued plying the lakes until their obsolescence. She made her final run in 1969, then was purchased and outfitted as a museum ship in 1971. 

As the last above-water ship of her type, the Meteor is a popular tourist attraction for those interested in Great Lakes shipping, and her permanent on-land berth at the far end of Barkers Island has grown into a family entertainment venue. Visitors can tour the ship, play a round of putt-putt, visit the gift shop, and get an ice cream cone all in the same afternoon. And for those  who wish to make a fashion statement, Duluth Trading Company offers a line of foul-weather gear named after the whaleback.

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

FRIDAY MATINEE: Midnight Mass (🍺🍺🍺🍺)

I held off writing this review until I had seen all seven episodes of the new Netflix limited series “Midnight Mass.” I’ve been burned in the past by shows that start out well and then devolve into silliness as they progress. While “Mass" doesn’t completely stick the landing, I think even the East German judge would give it a solid 9. Taken as a whole, I think it is as effective a piece of horror as the combined “It” movies from a few years ago, and right on par with “Hereditary” and “Midsommar.”  The story revolves around a man returning to his childhood island home after a prison stay for a drunk driving accident that killed a teen girl. Coincidentally, it is the same day the island’s beloved elderly priest, Monsignor Pruitt is supposed to return from a trip to the Holy Land. Unfortunately, the priest has taken ill and is being treated on the mainland. A temporary priest arrives to take his place.  The story takes a little while to get going, and anyone who’s familiar with t...

You Label Me, I'll Label You

Sometime around 1970, my parents acquired a "high tech" device known as a Label-It. Manufactured by the DYMO Corporation, the Label-It was an embossing tape printing system that produced a sticky-backed plastic strip onto which the user could custom-print words or short phrases; or for that matter I suppose all the great works of literature, given enough patience and an unlimited supply of tape. The Label-It was gun-shaped with a horizontal alpha-numeric wheel on top. You loaded a spool of plastic tape into the back and fed it through the embossing head. By arranging the wheel so that the desired number or letter was over the tape and pulling the "trigger," the head forced the tape against the raised character and, due the physical properties of the plastic, a white image of the character was transferred to the tape. When the entire word was finished, you hit the "cut" button and removed the label. It was fairly primitive by modern standards, but it was ...

FIELD NOTES: All corn is Indian corn

There's a good chance that when your family gathers (or gathered, depending on when you read this) around the table this Thanksgiving, one of the dishes set in front of you will be corn. Corn is arguably the most traditional Thanksgiving food, as it is one that we are sure was served at the original Thanksgiving in Plymouth in 1621. But the corn that the Wampanoag shared with the Pilgrims that day was very different from what you will put on your table.  Corn was cultivated by the indigenous peoples of North America for more than a thousand years by the time the Pilgrims arrived.  Originally a type of tall grass called teosinte with a dozen kernels no larger than the ball of a ballpoint pen, it was selectively bred over hundreds of generations until a handful of varieties resembling what we today call "Indian corn" were created. Technically, all corn is Indian corn since all of the varieties we grow today trace their roots back to those developed by Native Americans.  The...